For years, thioglycolate was the go-to active in lash lift formulas. Today, a growing number of professional brands are switching to Cysteamine — and the shift is changing how lash lift products are positioned across Europe and North America.
What’s the Difference?
Both ingredients work by breaking and re-forming the disulfide bonds in the hair to create a new curl. The key difference is strength:
- Thioglycolate — a strong, fast-working active used in traditional perming and lifting systems. Effective, but harsher on lashes and skin.
- Cysteamine — a milder active that delivers a comparable lift with significantly less irritation and damage risk. It has become the preferred choice for premium, “gentle” positioning.
Why Brands Are Making the Switch
- Softer on lashes. Reduced damage risk means healthier results for clients — a powerful marketing claim.
- Better for sensitive clients. Fewer irritation complaints for salons and academies.
- Premium positioning. “Thioglycolate-free” and “Cysteamine-based” immediately signal a higher-end product.
- Market trend. Industry analyses show professional brands increasingly choosing Cysteamine as their standard system.
What This Means for Your Product Line
- Cover both value and premium segments with a dual formula strategy.
- Differentiate from the many generic kits that still rely on traditional actives.
- Align with the “gentle, caring” messaging that resonates with modern US and EU consumers.
Most professional brands now expect to choose between traditional and Cysteamine systems — a good OEM partner should offer both.
Build a Cysteamine Lash Lift Line
We develop both traditional and Cysteamine formulas, with customizable Cysteamine percentage, keratin concentration and pH. Contact our OEM team for free formula recommendations and samples.